5 mountaineers are on a daring mission to make a uncommon and excessive winter ascent of Mount Everest with out oxygen for the primary time in almost three a long time.
Krzysztof Wielicki of Poland first climbed the world’s tallest peak within the lifeless of winter on Feb 17,1980. Ang Rita Sherpa, identified by the epithet of Snow Leopard, has climbed Everest 10 occasions with out utilizing supplemental oxygen, and one in every of his ascents was within the winter of 1987-1988.
Everest has by no means been climbed in winter since 1993.
Through the 2019 autumn climbing season which lasts from September to November, two deliberate makes an attempt on Everest, the primary after a decade, failed as a result of poor climate circumstances.
Among the many 5 aspirants, two Germans – Jost Kobusch and Hug Daniel – are at the moment acclimatising on the slopes of Everest, stated Rishi Bhandari, managing director of Satori Adventures which is dealing with the group.
“On Monday (Jan 13), they moved right down to base camp at 5,380m after reaching as much as Camp II (6,400m) as a part of their acclimatisation.” The German climbers should not utilizing climbing aids like ropes or ladders.
Based on Bhandari, the 2 Germans are exploring a brand new route, and they’re climbing with out oxygen. “The climbers will use the south-west ridge which has by no means been climbed in winter earlier than, ” he stated, including that it could be an excessive mission due to three components: winter, with out supplementary oxygen and an unfamiliar route.
In winter, the times are shorter and the nights longer and colder. “It’s tough. In the event that they fail to achieve the summit, they’ll make additional makes an attempt within the following years, ” stated Bhandari.
The winter climbing allow lasts as much as the top of February. The federal government prices US$2,500 (RM10,150) per individual for climbing Everest utilizing different routes. Through the spring and autumn, the opposite route prices US$10,000 (RM40,600) and US$5,000 (RM20,300) respectively.
The opposite staff making an attempt a winter try consists of three Spanish climbers – Oscar Cardo Briones, Jonatan Garcia Villa and the chief, Alex Txikon.
“They reached Namche Bazaar within the Khumbu area on Jan 13. They’ll climb Ama Dablam (6,812m) first by January-end and launch the Everest mission after that, ” stated Mingma Sherpa, managing director of Seven Summit Treks.
The Spaniard Everest expedition can be dealt with by Outware Treks and Expedition. Sherpa stated that the trio had focused reaching the summit of Everest by the top of February.
Pemba Sherpa, managing director of Outware Treks and Expedition, stated that three high-altitude Sherpa guides and an icefall physician had been making ready the route on the Khumbu Icefall for the climbers. “They won’t use oxygen however will take the traditional route to achieve the summit.”
Based on him, this can be their third winter try after the failed missions in 2016 and 2017. In 2017, they reached as much as Camp IV (8,000m) however needed to return as a result of unhealthy climate.
The final winter ascent, based on Tourism Division data, was made by Shinsuke Ezuka of Japan on Dec 20,1993.
The division had issued permits to 10 climbers – 4 American, 4 Polish, one British and one Spanish – to make a bid to scale Everest within the autumn season. They needed to drop their plans because the post-monsoon prolonged for almost two weeks, inflicting disturbances within the climate sample.
The world’s highest peak usually sees the best variety of climbers through the spring season. Only a few have climbed it through the autumn and winter seasons.
Within the 1980s, climbing within the autumn and winter was extra in style than within the spring. After the appearance of democracy in 1990 in Nepal, the federal government adopted a liberal financial coverage in 1992 and Everest was additionally opened to everybody and through any season. Because of this, climbers began to keep away from the autumn and winter climbing seasons because of the danger and excessive chilly.
Nepal’s Division of Survey, which is measuring the peak of Everest, stated it could take one other two months to finish the method. The division had deliberate to announce the peak of Everest by January, to finish the almost two-centuries-long controversy and declare, as soon as and for all, the altitude-both snow and rock height-of the world’s tallest mountain.
“We’ve got accomplished all of the measurements and surveys, and have been processing the info, ” stated Susheel Dangol, chief survey officer of the Everest Top Measurement Secretariat beneath the Division of Survey. “We count on to announce the definitive peak of Everest after two months.” – The Kathmandu Submit/Asia Information Community